Team Costhetics had a WOW moment recently.

As Australia’s leading source for news and information about cosmetic procedures, and aesthetic enhancement, we pride ourselves on knowing what’s hot and what’s not. So we were gobsmacked when we saw an article posted on Moneyish.com that said, “A trend report for 2018 from lifestyle site Pinterest says it’s seen a 345% increase in posts for ‘derma roller” over the past year.”

345%?! We had to know more.

Celebrity Derma Rolling

It appears that derma rolling is taking the world by storm, including these face-conscious celebrities:

  • Kim Kardashian – was filmed doing the derma roll in 2013, which whipped the media into a frenzy.
  • Jennifer Aniston – told Associated Press to tell her fans, “It’s great” and credited it with giving her flawless skin.
  • Gwyneth Paltrow – swears by derma rolling.
  • Ellen Degeneres – told viewers she uses derma rollers and loves them.
  • Angelia Jolie – has been using a derma roller on and off to put off plastic surgery.

Why so popular?

Why Patients & Practitioners Love Doing the Derma Roll

Derma rolling (also known as CIT or collagen induction therapy) is a form of microneedling, using short needles. As the above statistics confirm, its fan base is growing fast. This increasingly popular skin rejuvenation process uses a tool (the derma roller) to create tiny punctures in the skin. The controlled “wounds” stimulate natural skin repair and cell regeneration.

The results are impressive:

  • Collagen and elastin are produced in the wound areas
  • Increased elasticity
  • Improved texture
  • Improved firmness
  • Reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  • Minimised skin discolouration
  • Reduces acne scarring
  • Minimised stretch marks
  • Reduces large pores

As impressive as the results are, so are lifestyle-friendly side benefits:

  • Significantly less expensive than other skin rejuvenation treatments
  • Minimally invasive
  • No down time

Down time is affected by the length of the needles used. The longer the needles, the deeper the wound and the longer the recovery period will be.

Why Researchers Say Derma Rolling is a Winner

Since they were first developed over twenty years ago, micro-needling devices have gotten more effective. The process can also be used to improve the penetration of high-tech ingredients such as stem cells and epidermal growth factor. The Dermatologist magazine printed a study on a 60-year-old woman whose skin was helped by micro-needling combined with Plasma Rich Platelet therapy. Her results were enviable:

  • Immediate improvement in skin firmness and radiance
  • Better skin texture
  • Improvement in fine lines
  • Increased level of skin hydration

“In our experience, PRP used in conjunction with microneedling for facial rejuvenation offers a minimally invasive option…with minimal downtime and long-lasting effects,” said the study authors. “Our patient showed improvement after 1 treatment of microneedling with PRP. The patient’s maximum improvement was noted at 1 month.”

Even Winners Can Be Losers in Skin Care

Derma rolling is not the holy grail of skin care for everyone. The risks are lower than with other more aggressive skin treatments such as chemical peels, however it can lead to:

  • Bleeding
  • Bruising
  • Infection
  • Scarring
  • Pigment problems

It should also be avoided by people who have active acne and other skin conditions. If you’re not certain whether you’re a good candidate for derma rolling, talk to your dermatologist or skin therapist…even if you just want to try a DIY version.

Derma Rolling at Your Skincare Therapists Office

Derma rolling and micro-needling may sound scary, but this treatment is anything but. Here’s what happens during a professional treatment:

  • Analysis of skin and patients goals to determine best size needles and add-ons
  • Application of a topical anaesthetic
  • Priming of skin with products to stimulate collagen
  • Priming of skin with a brightener that contains Vitamin C.
  • Rolling begins (some minor bleeding may occur)

For maximum benefit, most patients will do at least three treatments per year with four to six weeks in between each.

Why Results May Vary

As with all skin rejuvenation therapies, success is affected by a wide number of factors. Key is the training, skill, and experience of your practitioner. There simply is no comparison between the results of a professional treatment and at-home therapies. Here’s why:

  • The most effective needles are only available to professionals
  • The best serums and add-on products are only available to professionals

That brings us to the topic of DIY derma-rolling.

Derma Rolling at Home

As we noted previously, home derma rollers use smaller needles than the professional versions. These tiny needles aren’t sufficient to stimulate collagen synthesis, but they are an effective way to improve the absorption and penetration of skin care products. The process is quite simple. Starting at the centre of your face, and moving outward,

  • Roll the tool horizontally over your forehead, cheeks, and chin several times
  • Roll the tool vertically across your forehead several times
  • Roll the tool diagonally across your face several times
  • Roll the tool downward on your nose several times

Some people do find the process uncomfortable, so here’s a warning: don’t take aspirin for your pain. It is a blood thinner and will not promote healing.

Rules for Safe DIY Derma Rolling

The enthusiasm for derma rolling has spilled over to manufacturers who are creating at-home products for skin rejuvenation. Some are better than others.

If you want to try derma rolling at home, please follow these safety instructions so you can avoid problems:

  • Keep it clean – Dirty hands are the single biggest hazard to your derma rolling health. Clean your hands with an antibacterial soap to get rid of bacteria, dirt, and invisible toxins that may be clinging to your skin. 
  • Don’t be lazy with numbing cream – Anaesthetic creams will help with any discomfort, but you must be sure to wipe it off thoroughly before you begin rolling. You don’t want the numbing cream to get into your skin while you’re needling.
  • Get a bottle of alcohol – No, you don’t want to be drunk when you derma-roll, but you do want your roller to be squeaky-clean. Soaking it in a solution of 70% isopropyl alcohol for 5-10 minutes will do the trick.
  • Face up to dirt – Wash your face thoroughly, but gently before you roll with a pH-balanced cleanser.
  • Know what you’re putting on/in your skin – Derma rolling is often combined with topical products. Because the treatment dramatically intensifies the absorption and potency of these products, you must be very careful about the ones you use. Skin products containing fragrance, salicylic acid, alpha and beta hydroxyl, and parabens should be avoided.
  • Limit treatments to 1 a week – Too much derma rolling can lead to infections and temporary, but ugly needle marks. Don’t get greedy. Be patient.
  • Leave your eyes alone – The skin on your upper eyelids is incredibly thin and delicate. If your eyelids are droopy or saggy, you need a surgeon, not a derma roller.

Is derma rolling the right choice for you and your skin? We can report that members of Team Costhetics have enjoyed benefits from both professional and at-home treatments. Give it a whirl. We think you’ll like what you see.

Stay beautiful!

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