I scream, you scream, we all scream for eye creams.
We pay for them too … handsomely. Treatments to erase fine lines and wrinkles, raise sagging skin, and revitalise the eye area have never been more in demand, but are they worth the money? Costhetics, devoted to exploring the latest news and information about trending topics, may have found the answer.
Eye Wrinkles: 3 Reasons You Can’t Escape Them
Costhetics loves to share good news about aesthetics, but we are also honest. No-one escapes some degree of eye ageing. The skin around the eyes is especially delicate and thinner than elsewhere on the face and body. It also gets put through a constant workout due to:
- Sun exposure
- Natural skin ageing
- Repetitive facial motions (smiling, squinting, etc.)
Humans are split on their opinion of eye wrinkles. Some say they are a sign of a life well-lived, and emotions freely expressed. Others simply find them ageing. Whichever side of the fence you’re on, Costhetics supports your choice.
Do Eye Creams Erase Fine Lines and Wrinkles?
The biggest complaint against eye creams is that they are expensive and don’t work. Do those complaints hold up under examination? The answer may surprise you. Scientific studies have provided ample evidence that aesthetic products, including simple facial moisturisers, can repair and prevent eye wrinkles. Here’s where things get tricky though.
Unless an eye cream contains certain very specific ingredients in its formula, it will not do the job. Be on the lookout for products that contain one of these active ingredients that work as essential skin healers:
- Retinols (in prescription and non-prescription strengths)
- Vitamin C
Unlike the popular eye cream ingredient hyaluronic acid, these ingredients work on a molecular level to rejuvenate eye-area skin. However, they may not always work well together. The interaction between the properties of retinol and vitamin C can lead to skin breakouts. The best eye cream formulations do not combine the two. Instead, skin therapists suggest you use vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night to avoid skin irritation.
Rah, Rah Retinols
Vitamin A is the source for the chemical compounds known as retinols in over-the-counter products and retinoids in prescription skin care. Retinols are the darlings of skincare experts, thanks to their ability to accelerate cell turnover and:
- Slow collagen breakdown
- Stimulate production of hyaluronic acid
- Trigger the production of new collagen
The Cleveland Clinic, in its article on skin, underscores the importance of collagen contributions to:
- Plump, supple skin
- Improved skin elasticity
- Less sagging
- Fewer wrinkles and fine lines
Retinol Isn’t for You If …
Is there anything not to love about these useful little compounds? Unfortunately, yes. Because of their higher potency, prescription retinoids may cause skin irritations in some people. Even retinol can be problematic. The irritation is usually minor and resolves within a week. Your skincare therapist or doctor can tell you more about this. If you prefer to start with a DIY approach, look for products that contain between 0.25% and 1.0% retinol.
Retinol and the sun do not play nicely together. Vitamin A and vitamin C skin products can also increase the effects of the sun, leaving your skin burned. At the same time, the sun decreases the effectiveness of the skin products as they break down in sunlight. If your skin is sensitive to sun, consider applying your retinol-based products in the evening only. (You are already wearing lots of sunscreen protection each and every day, aren’t you? Of course you are.)
“Until data on larger cohorts are collected, women should not be encouraged to use topical retinoids during pregnancy,” warns the U.S. National Institute of Health. The high absorption rate that makes retinols so good for skincare make it dangerous to an unborn child.
Vitamin C, That’s for Me, Say Eye Wrinkles
In addition to adding nutrient goodness to your health, vitamin C has shown promise as a topical treatment for wrinkles. Vitamin C in topical form is prized for bringing powerful antioxidant benefits to the delicate eye area. Formulations that include it can:
- Prevent skin from thinning
- Increase and maintain collagen production around the eyes
- Plump skin
- Diminish the appearance of crow’s feet and other wrinkles
- Reduces hyperpigmentation and under-eye circles
It’s common to find hyaluronic acid and vitamin C in the same formulation to improve skin hydration. Less common is finding vitamin C coupled with ferulic acid and vitamin E. This 3-part formulation gives a good antioxidant real super-power.
Is a Vitamin C Eye Cream Right for You?
There is little evidence that topical vitamin C is harmful, but it still presents challenges in use. L-ascorbic acid (LAA) is the most stable and easily absorbed vitamin C topical, and therefore the most common in skincare. It is most effective with a pH of 3.5 or lower. This is in conflict with the skin’s natural pH levels of 4-6 and can lead to skin problems. Most negative reports complain of breakouts in people with oily skin. A skincare therapist can do patch tests on your skin to avoid problems.
People with sensitive skin should also work with their doctors to identify eye creams that have a lower, rather than higher pH. While the reduced potency may reduce benefits, it is worth it to prevent skin irritation.
How to Treat Your Eye Wrinkles
Which eye cream is right for you? That’s the million-dollar question, of course. News.com Australia offered up its best-eye-cream-by-age article, but Costhetics has a better idea. Ask an expert. Skincare is about more than your age. It is also related to your good health. A skincare professional will consider your age, your skin type, and even your lifestyle. All these factors are important in order to create a bespoke skincare program incorporating the best of at-home and in-clinic treatments for your healthy skin.
Costhetics knows lots of aesthetic professionals. Contact us and let us help you find a practitioner near you.